Scentzilla!

Helmut Lang’s Cuiron paints a portrait in monochrome. It is comprised of successive layers of leather. But not any old leather. Or rather, it IS old leather - the smell of an antique book pulled off the shelf, an old black jacket hanging off the back of a chair, a soft suede purse that’s only pulled out on special occasions, a well-worn chair that’s seen better days but is still the comfiest one in the house. Thus, Cuiron manages to be rather non-acidic for a leather scent. It hugs very closely to my skin, as well. A skin leather scent, perhaps?

The fragrance does open up with a twinge of bitter fruit and white pepper. (Unlike white musk, I can knowledgeably state that white pepper is a definable item. I use it white sauces and cream soups to prevent my food from being speckled by black pepper.)

And this top layer shifts down into a note that smells like a gasoline stained rag. Weirdly, I like that.

Slowly, subtly, the different dimensions of the leather reveal themselves. Underpinning the leather is a genteel musk note.

I wonder if perhaps the monochrome character of Cuiron might not prove to be dull to some people. One person’s “subtle” can be another’s “boring.” And yet I also wonder if the gas rag and pepper might not prove too sharp and alienating to others.

For a while I was layering this cologne with a soliflor jasmine eau de toilette or Stella McCartney’s Stella to femme it up. But now? Just gimme the straight stuff, thanks: I don’t want anything to inturrupt it.

Cuiron is, from all reports, discontinued, and one rumor has it that it is because of disputes between Lang and Unilever (they distribute his fragrance line.) I think the only real problem this fragrance has is that a lot of consumers have never heard of it. I certainly hadn’t, until I saw it on clearance from Sephora for five bucks. It was a “aw, what the hell” sort of a purchase, and it turned out to be a lucky one. Cuiron can still be found through online discount retailers thankfully. Insofar as I know, Cuiron is only produced in cologne strength.

Picture above is Leather Pool in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.