Thierry Mugler Angel… and the Seedlings of What Undoubtedly Will Become a Saga of Serious Chocolate Addiction
I’ve long demurred from reviewing Thierry Mugler’s Angel, not because of its quality, but due to its ubiquity. Mugler’s extreme fragrance succeeds to the extreme.
As a consequence, rare is the perfume enthusiast unfamiliar with it. Angel cannot be avoided by those seeking to learn about perfumes any more than is the unavoidable figure of Bismarck when seeking to understand modern Western history.
“Angel” sounds in name like it ought to be another tiresome light fruity floral affair. The Dolemite strut of the juice itself is anything but. Angel will not suit wallflowers. It cannot be worn, nor does it wear you: Angel becomes you.
Much could be made of Angel’s use of ethyl maltol, a sweet candy dispenser of an aromachemical that perversely gives the rest of this dense composition its kick in the crotch. However, I’ll leave discussion of aromachemicals up to the more technically-minded folks, since “kick in the crotch” is not likely to enter the official lexicon of perfumery. Angel begins with a layer of virtual floral tones that eschew the weight of tangible and real petals. This airy layer spins off into the composition’s infamous chocolate, buried berried treasure, and of course, the pungent funk of patchouli intermingling with burnt sugar confections in the base. It’s the anguish of this candied sweetness in the base that I think causes Angel’s detractors more pain than the chewy notes of chocolate and patchouli; Conversely, it is also what delights its devotees.
Catching the sillage off an Angel wearer is an unmistakable experience. You know it right off, and despite Angel’s many progenies it can be mistaken it for none other. Where many of the the homages to it focus more on explicitly gourmand aspects, Angel doesn’t sway from its essential character as a perfume. It evokes hungry thoughts, but does not immedietly evoke food.
It’s a fantastic trick to pull off.
Sniff Missioni’s effort, and one looks around for an unwrapped Terry’s Chocolate Orange. (Although, ugh. I actually hate those things, and would rather lick the inside of a gym sneaker… but I digress.) Catch a whiff of Serendipitous, and you want a mug of hot chocolate. Sniff Flowerbomb, and you wish you had a wee nibble of cake, please. But upon inhaling Angel, you long after a general and undefined more, whatever that is, greedy for sensual pleasures that can’t be written on recipe cards. It is a fragrance that reveals the wearer as both ravenous and ravishing at once.
When I visualize what a mental snapshot of Angel looks like, I picture a stiletto heel crushing out a brownie like a cigarette. Sex and food transliterated as attitude. And fabulously so. It’s what Eddie Izzard might call a “fuck off” perfume.
None of this is to say that one can actually escape its gourmandise delights. Chocolate, oh divine chocolate…
After reading an excellent expose on the Noka Chocolate line last month at the Dallas Food blog, (warning: while it is a great piece, one has to accept the author’s “gotcha” tone throughout the series.) I was craving chocolate like a crazy woman.
Sure, I could have picked up some Green & Black (Or not. Skip their “Dark 70%,” because, ewwww. It gives a weirdly beany off-taste to me, like bad canned limas or poorly prepared edamame. No lie. If you’re stuck with grocery store options, try the Ghiradelli baking bar, which is cheap but tastes surprisingly nice. Or Green & Black’s own baking bar, which I think tastes better than their “regular” bar, funnily enough.) Or for that matter, I could have bought Dagoba, Valrhona, Endangered Species (fine brands all) or any of those other brands available at the local brick and mortar shops, but… honestly? I wanted something different, off the beaten path.
Upon the recommendation of the Dallas Food blog, I headed over to Chocosphere.com. (And I will second his recommendation: I couldn’t have been happier with their service. A fun range, competitive pricing, great shipping options. Moreover, they’re based just over the river in Tualitin, OR, and it feels nice to still be patronizing an area business even if it’s over the web-o-nets.) Please note, while I purchased everything listed through Chocosphere, I’m hyperlinking to official sites, and their specific item pages when possible for the sake of non-US readers.
My favorite selection was easily Michel Cluizel’s whimsical Mushrooms. Chewy caramel fills the stem, and crunchy crispy almondine makes up the mushroom’s cap. They are enrobed in a blanket of white and dark chocolates… and enshrouded in deliciousness. If you try them and don’t find yourself addicted, then… I don’t know what to say to you. They make my mouth weep with happiness. (Which is super-secret code to avoid saying “drool.”)
My boys’ favorite bar, and one I enjoyed deeply as well, was Domori’s Dark Chocolate and Green Jasmine Tea, from their Ethnics line. The flavor of the tea doesn’t make itself completely apparent until the aftertaste, which surprised me since generally chocolatiers in the U.S. tend to make secondary flavors quite explicit. The texture felt like silken velveteen, with the tea leaves providing a subtle stray crunch or two in each square.
However, the dark chocolate I gravitated most towards was Amedei’s Chuao. The flavor of it popped like a champagne cork on my tongue, its bitterness coming on with a rush of smooth plummy connotations. It’s a very rounded flavor, but definitely not flat, and perhaps a wonderful bar to try if you fear dark chocolate.
I also tried Bonnat’s Puerto Cabello, a wonderfully berry-inflected chocolate, though I found the texture wanting, for it felt a bit too waxy for my taste and a little granular. I’d actually love to make brownies with this, to take advantage of the flavor while losing the texture inside a chewy mass of flour and sugar. Also tried were Domori’s Porcelena (soft but rich, with cherry pipe tobacco and creamy bread pudding like undertones) and their Cru Rio Caribe (complex, bright, but loud, disjointed, and strangely unappealing compared to the much more suble and enjoyable berry tones of the Bonnat I tried.) I also picked up a box of Galler’s funny little Cat Tongues for the boys, but alas, they take after their mother more then their father taste-wise, and were less than compelled by milk chocolate. They like M&Ms, so I thought maybe? But no. Give ‘em the straight stuff or don’t bother. Anyhow, my husband enjoyed them, though he too has fallen completely under the spell of those delighful Cluizel mushrooms.
So… uh, got any good chocolate? Because while I intended for this splurge to last, it doesn’t appear it will. Which is kind of sad. Okay, very sad. So spill the cocoa beans: Which chocolates are on your favorites list? What’s your worst choco-addiction? Lay it on me.
(For the record, I’m picky, but I’m not a snob. I lurve Violet Crumble candy bars, embarrassing as that is. It’s not embarrassing because of the taste, they’re scrummy, it’s just that the honeycomb gets stuck in the back corners of my mouth, which has the unfortunate effect of making me look A LOT LIKE MR. ED the entire time I’m eating one. I avoid public Violet Crumble consumption whenever possible.)
If you’re wanting a little inspiration for something new, too, try reading the reviews at seventypercent.com. I know everyone likes to make comparisons between perfume nuts and wine snobs, but I swear, those marvelous chocophiles are truly kindred spirits.
Image top is a screencapture from flash demo at thierrymugler.com. Second image from chocosphere.com.
Confidential to angry swarm of Shania Twain fans: I saw fragrance sets of Shania on clearance endcaps at Fred Meyer’s (Kroger) which I say not to be snide, but because discounts are awesome.
January 29th, 2007 at 4:33 pm
I am now officially addicted to Dagoba Xocolatl and Chocolovers Crystallized Ginger in Dark Chocolate. The Green & Black Maya Gold was so-so. I recently tried just about every bar Vosges makes, and didn’t love any of them.
Now I want that Domori :-)
January 29th, 2007 at 4:34 pm
“A stiletto heel crushing out a brownie like a cigarette” - love that! LOVE that.
January 29th, 2007 at 4:50 pm
Robin - I keep waiting for the Xocolatl to hit the shelves here, but it hasn’t. Or at least I haven’t spotted it. I think I’ll just have to order it instead of waiting around. I was so underwhelmed by G&B’s first eating bar that I’ve skipped the Maya Gold, and… will likely continue to do so. Thanks for the Chocolovers rec: I’d never heard anything about them and wondered if they had anything good to check out. And I’m not overly enamored with the Vosges bars either. I know what you mean, and they’re certainly not bad, just… there’s stuff I liked way better out there.
Marina - ach, thanks, I was scared that would only make sense to me, which… well, it wouldn’t be the first time that’s happened, but still. Nice to know that fits for you, too :)
January 29th, 2007 at 5:36 pm
Ack, did you realize that Domori has discontinued the Jasmine tea bar? Chocolate is as bad as perfume, LOL…
January 29th, 2007 at 5:41 pm
GAK! NOOO! Well, drat. At least it’s still available as a clearance item at chocosphere, though what cold comfort that is. Try the Blend No. 1 bar I guess? The jasmine tea added something special, but it’s really the chocolate that was the best thing about it. Guess I’ll be reordering the Blend No. 1, too. Crud.
January 29th, 2007 at 6:06 pm
Not to be took picky, but isn’t it “ethyl maltol”?
January 29th, 2007 at 6:09 pm
Sean - Heh, yes, it is. I am not so good with the typing, spelling, or… well, most things. Which is to say, thanks for catching my error, heh. Will fix that in a jiffy. Appreciate it!
January 29th, 2007 at 9:21 pm
I love Vosges truffles, especially the odd ones like wasabi & ginger or white & black pepper, and they have a lovely chocolate-covered caramel with Hawaiian sea salt & hibiscus petal.
One of my absolute favorites, though, is a tiny shop in my old neighbrohood called Bon Bon. They make all their own chocolates on the premises and have many delicious exotic flavors (I love the tea-flavored ganaches, the rose petal ganache, the Cleopatra (milk chocolate, cinnamon, and ancho chili) and the milk Buddha (curry and Chinese spice.) You can order from them online at http://www.bonbonchicago.com/
Enjoy!
January 29th, 2007 at 9:42 pm
ok, here comes the angelic message from choco paradise…
Sprüngli cru sauvage (using the best cacao there is on the market, wild cacao, from selected regions only, not marketing bizz…this is true. handmade still today. most of the time not available)…www.spruengli.ch
And the truffes with marc from down the hill next door (marc is kind of a schnaps…) from the Schoggikoenig here in Hoengg, Zurich.
greetings
January 30th, 2007 at 5:14 am
Well, our chocolate here sucks, because we’re a serious city on serious business, and we refuse to bow our Puritan knees to chocolate weakness … so the best I can do locally is Vosges (which you guys ragged, but I like their red pepper ones a lot.)
We are a houseful of shameless chocolate addicts, devouring homemade cakes and pans of brownies in less than a day. We will eat anything in our path (Hershey kisses from Halloween, forgotten Snickers bars…) although we draw the line at candy coins found under the couch cushions. Well, some of us do.
January 30th, 2007 at 8:49 am
No, no…not going to pursue chocolate the way I tried to pursue perfume. Let’s just say anything dark, the higher the percentage the better.
And I really just wanted to comment to say how much I love Eddie Izzard. Seeing his name invoked always pleases me.
January 30th, 2007 at 2:42 pm
Marissa - Quickly checked out the site: they look just lovely, though I have to admit, it’s the rose petal ganache you mention that has me drooling just thinking about it. YUM. Thanks, that all sounds delish! I haven’t tried the Vosges truffles yet, just their eating bars. Sounds like I will have to sample some of those as well.
Andy - ooooh, I don’t recall ever eating anything by Sprüngli. They definitely are going onto my “to sample” list, too. The Swiss are so famous for their own confectionary delights, so I’ll have to move beyond the French and Italians, obviously :)
March - heh, and I just would rather not eat chocolate at all if it’s in the form of Hershey’s milk chocolate stuff, kisses included. It just kills my husband, since well, he thinks a Hershey’s bar is a little inexpensive piece of heaven. Have you ever made O’Henry bars? I love making and eating those. I never quite muster up chocolate cake very often, got any good recipes?
greeneyes - I adore Eddie Izzard. He’s, like, the glamified successor to Billy Connolly, whom I also adore. I am hoping I will be sated with idle chocolate sampling…. I think I will. And I’m with you, the darker the better generally.
January 30th, 2007 at 11:51 pm
Oooh! Chocolate! My current favorite store-bought bar is the Endangered Species “Wolf” bar: dark chocolate mixed with almonds and dried cranberries. Yummy yummy goodness.
For a decadent treat, there are two retail shops in Vancouver that make confections to delight the senses: One is a shop called (appropriately enough) Senses which makes all kinds of chocolates with wacky ingredients such as peppers and wasabi.
The other shop is called Chocolate Arts. Not only are their chocolates drool-worthy, but they are also among the prettiest I’ve ever seen: many of their truffles and bon-bons are coated with an edible dust that is pearlesent or metallic looking. They also make their own “two-bite” brownies with dark chocolate.
To die for! Hmmm… tomorrow’s payday perhaps I will indulge.
January 31st, 2007 at 4:59 am
How do I make an O’Henry?
No, no, Hershey doesn’t REPLACE real chocolate, just like Sand & Sable doesn’t replace Serge Lutens. But on an emergency basis…
BTW the poodle is substandard only because he’s probably half the standard size for a male (35 lbs-ish). Picture a dog between a standard (which can be ginormous) and a mini. He’s actually the perfect size, it’s a wonder more people don’t have one.
January 31st, 2007 at 10:19 am
cheezwiz - Ooooh, now I have some new places to set on an itinerary the next time I visit B.C. Cool. Not that that will happen anytime soon, sigh. I love Vancouver. It’s one of those cities that has such an interesting feel to it. Tellingly enough, my fave thing to do there is to just wander a little aimlessly and get lost (so to speak) looking around. I really like those Endangered Species bars, which kind of shocked me. I thought they’d be all gimmick, but turns out they’re just plain delish. I haven’t tried the Wolf one, though. Mmmm, cranberries….
March, omg!! I will post my O’Henry recipe later on, or I’ll email it to you. It’s a quick treat to make, and so yummy. And thanks - I wondered what substandard meant. That sounds like a good family dog, actually. Just right in that perfect kid-friendly size range, or at least sounds kid-friendly size to me. My husband has become a dachshund man, kind of like the doggie equivalent of a crazy cat lady, but I hold him in check, since despite his wild dreams of owning a dachshund ranch, I can only handle a couple dogs at the same time. We’ll never own anythng but wieners I’m afraid. I am trying to talk him into a mix breed wiener, though. A poodle-dachsie mix might be cute, heh. It’d look all scrunchie and everything. Or at least in my head the idea of that mix looks that way.
January 31st, 2007 at 5:10 pm
Hi, hi, hi! I have a question- does anyone know where to find “Lenciaga” by Balenciaga? I need a new fragrance which ideally (ha, ha) should be billowy, no carnation. Jardins de Bagatelle sounds interesting any info/thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
Angel scares me.
January 31st, 2007 at 11:42 pm
Do post the Oh Henry Recipe!
I agree with you on the Endangered Species bars - I thought they were gimmicky until I tried one: pretty high-quality stuff.
February 2nd, 2007 at 8:54 am
omg, a scrunchie-like dog would be excellent! You must get one! Instant squees. Yummy post. Those mushrooms look beautiful but I don’t like caramel that much :( Sadly I lack chocolate recommendations. Although I’m curious about what you’d think of Royce’s nama (fresh) chocolate; if only they shipped outside the country! :( http://www.e-royce.com/servlet/layer3?pageid=2
February 5th, 2007 at 4:52 pm
Andy - holy cow, you know, I didn’t realize that Sprüngli is actually Lindt here in the States. I love Lindt chocolates, especially those little inexpensive but addictive bon bons that are individually wrapped. Those are some of my faves!
Mary Alice - I’m sorry, I haven’t heard of one named Lenciaga. There is one called Cialenga: could that be it? I haven’t ever smelled it, so I don’t know if it’s something that would fit the bill for you, but I quick checked eBay, and one seller has 1/3 oz. decants available. As far as carnation-free florals, you’ve got a relatively wide range of choices. Jardins de Bagatelle is a BIG floral, very much a product of the 80s, and quite lush. Angel can be a little scary, heh. It’s superb, but it provokes a lot of love/hate reactions.
Cheezwiz - will do, then! I think I have it written down in one of the card books hiding out in the cupboard, so it’ll be dug out later this evening.
Kuri - I know, right? My husband is set on having a full family full of the black and tan doxies though, so we’ll have to come to some sort of compromise :) Will look up the Royce’s AFTER supper (I discovered I can’t be checking these chocolate links before suppertime or I end up getting snacky, eek.)
February 5th, 2007 at 5:01 pm
Oops, Mary Alice, I should add: one very lush floral I quite like is Pascal Morabito’s Mon Classique. It DOES have carnation in it, however, it doesn’t dominate over the freesia and magnolia, especially when it is dabbed on instead of sprayed on. (When sprayed, I perecieve the carnation a little bit more, not sure why, though.) It’s not a particularly famous fragrance, so I’m sure it could likely be picked up on the cheap from one of the discount etailers, if it sounds interesting. A really woody floral that I’ve come to enjoy, that is quite big as well is Sabi by Henri Dunay. It’s one that had to grow on me a little, and it feels very elegant.
February 7th, 2007 at 11:10 am
Inspired by your post, I tried Angel for the first time (!) last night. I realized that I had never actually sampled it on my skin. It’s not so bad, but I think I have an aversion to it simply from being suffocated by others’ over-application.
As for chocolate, I’m not much of a chocolate person, but I think that brownie batter is about as good as it gets. Whenever I make brownies (for DH’s sake, who is a confirmed chocoholic) I always consider the leftover batter on the spoon and in the bowl my dessert. I think I almost cried one time when he started rinsing out the bowl before I had sufficiently “cleaned” it. So there’s my classy nomination for you!
February 9th, 2007 at 1:29 am
Thank you for responding the info. I will check out the 2 you mentioned. You were also correct about the spelling. I found it at one of those mall perfumeaterias - it ws sort of spicy but I don’t really trust their samples. They sprayed me with some very scary unknown scents so I immediately had to go smell coffee beans.
Off to find the one’s you mentioned. Stay toasty in this wild weather!
February 9th, 2007 at 11:33 am
Carolyn - Yeah, that aversion to over-eager Angel application is shared. It requires a delicate touch, to say the least. I’m too big of a chicken to eat raw batter. Like, I’m to the point of phobic around uncooked eggs. (I haven’t tried cooking with those homogenized eggs yet, admittedly.) So funny - you get your fix with the batter instead of the brownie, hee! Very classy ;P If some restaraunts were smart, they’d offer cookie dough and brownie batter on dessert menus, too.
Mary Alice - Oh good, glad it was something you could track down locally. That’s always nice, since you can revist it again when you feel like it. Not sure if the Morabito will be too easy to find, but Sabi is just at Neiman Marcus if you have one of those nearby. This dumb crazy weather is just messing with us all. It was freaking freezing and snowy out just a scant while ago, and now there’s, like, mid-Spring weather here in Portland. Freaking insane. And it looks like it’s pretty much just as crazy EVERYWHERE. At this point everyone has to have both the winter coats and the summer jackets hanging on the coat rack, because you never know how it’s gonna be when you step out the door. Good lord.