I’ve long wanted to post a brief history of one of the more fascinating and slightly arcane perfume houses of the last century. Weil perfumes are interesting, but the story of the Weils and their house is perhaps even more interesting. Although I am a huge fan, I knew I’d botch the story if I tried to tell it. Instead, I’ve turned to someone whom I consider THE expert on all things Weil, Jill Martin Clements (aka rockinruby on eBay and elsewhere in internetland)… Well, okay, THE expert aside from the Weils themselves, that is! I am humbled by her generosity in writing the piece below, and never stop being impressed by her passion and knowledge on the subject. She is a woman of exquisite tastes, and an excellent writer. Please note that several of the images can be clicked upon and viewed as a larger file in your browser window, in order to better see the details. Enjoy:
House of Weil, by Jill Martin Clements:
The perfume house of Weil has a rich history filled with stunningly beautiful perfumes, as well as drama and turmoil representative of the experience of so many 20th century European design houses. It is, at its heart, a family story. But a family story writ large — encompassing the drama of the fashion world, international marketing, and the heartbreak of World War.
I have been a lover of Weil perfumes for many years. Always, the more I learn, the more deeply connected I feel to this house. I believe that Weil was truly one of the great houses of Parisian parfumerie, and deserves to take its place alongside Lanvin, Guerlain, and Chanel.
After so many years of feeling as if I was the last person on earth to remember and revere the perfumes of Weil, I had the great good fortune to meet the grandson of Marcel Weil, as well as his family. I have had the opportunity, through conversations and correspondence, to pick his brain about his family history, and he has been gracious and accommodating at every turn. It has truly been an honor and a delight to know this family, and I am indebted to Dan Weil for almost all of the information that follows….bear in mind that many dates and details come from family anecdotes, rather than written documents, so take it all with at least a small grain of salt. (1)
In 1912, Alfred Weil founded a fur business, Les Fourrures Weil. He was soon joined in business by his two brothers, Jacques and Marcel. Alfred was the buyer; Jacques the salesman, and Marcel was in charge of creation and design.
In 1927, during the very height of the glitz and glamour of the Roaring 20’s, Marcel was approached by one of their regular customers, who requested “fur perfume” for her fine furs. Marcel liked the idea, and founded Parfums Weil. He was then joined by his brothers in this venture, as well, though Marcel took primary control of the perfume business, while Jacques retained primary control of the fur business. After Marcel’s death in 1933 of pneumonia, Jacques and Alfred assumed control of all perfume operations, as well.
The first perfumes created for Weil — the so-called “fur perfumes” — were created by Claude Fraysse, who had worked with Firmenich in Geneva, and was the official “nose” for Yardley Perfumes. The Fraysse family is one of great import in the perfume world. One of Claude’s sons, Andre, created Arpege for Lanvin, and another, Hubert, ran the scent company Synarome. His daughter Jacqueline was a gifted perfumer, as well. The initial line of “fur perfumes” debuted in 1928, with Claude responsible for the first three scents:
- Zibeline, a floral chypre intended to recall the steppes and massive oak forests of Imperial Russia,
- Chinchilla Royal, rich with jasmine and roses to evoke the splendour of the Persian and Indian Empires, and
- Hermine, intended to symbolize tenderness and virginity, it was heavy with the sweet flowers of the Pacific Isles.
Although Claude was the nose, Jacqueline worked closely with him on these scents, as well. The Fraysse family remained involved in the creation of Weil’s scents for years to come, as Une Fleur was created by Claude, Bambou, Cassandra, and Noir by Jacqueline, and Antilope (the 2nd, successful version — there was an earlier failure) by Hubert.
Those first bottles were produced by Baccarat. All Weil perfume bottles would be made by Baccarat from 1927 until 1954.
The first Eau de Toilettes (Zibeline and Chinchilla) were introduced in 1930.
In 1940, the family was forced to close the Paris operation and for a short period of time moved to Bordeaux. In 1942, during the occupation of France, the Nazis confiscated the business and gave it to a German baron and his girlfriend. More on this in a moment.
By this time, Alfred and Jacques had fled Europe and settled in New York. They bought their distributor’s business and set up production for a time in the US as Societe Parfums Weil Paris, Inc., at 745 Fifth Ave., New York. Jacques took primary control of the US business, and launched production in the US with Zibeline and Cassandra. They had some difficulty recreating the other scents with materials available in wartime NY, and during their attempts they produced an unplanned mixture that they liked and called Cobra. Cobra debuted in the US in June 1941. It is not believed that Cobra was ever sold outside of the US.
Although the ad above at right is quite sedate, Cobra generally had a remarkably sexy ad campaign — fabulous Art Nouveau lithos of women, and a simple sample card with the tag line, “Eve was warned.” [Ed. note: The print magazine ads, such as the one pictured left, used a longer variant on the tag line, “Eve had been warned.”]
They followed up with Gri Gri in 1943 which featured native African tribal art for the ad campaign.
Secret de Venus Huile Pour le Bain (also sometimes seen as Huile Pour le Bain et Douche or Bath and Body Perfume Oil) was introduced in the US in 1941, and in France in 1947. It was always marketed as a more or less American product, and was never as popular in Europe. This line ultimately included numerous scents; all of them would include the “Secret de Venus” designation, yet remain available in their original perfume form without that designation, as well, thus causing great confusion over the years!!
They were:
- Secret de Venus (also seen as Secret of Venus)
- Secret de Venus Zibeline
- Secret de Venus Antilope
- Secret de Venus Cassandra
- Secret de Venus Noir
- Secret de Venus Padisha
This line has always been my favorite, and intrigues me no end. I have never fully gotten to the bottom of the story, as I maintain that scents released as Secret de Venus oils smell markedly different from their standard counterparts. I have long wondered what, precisely, the crazy secret of Venus IS, as it seems to irresistably alter all of
the fragrances it touches. There is an animalic warmth and depth to all of the oil-based scents which makes them maddeningly sexy, and as long lasting as any scent I’ve ever tried.
My favorite — my “Holy Grail,” if you will — is Secret de Venus Zibeline. The scent opens with a warm blast of citrus and musk, and shifts into some pretty florals for a time, but it is the eternal drydown rich in ambergris and civet that holds my attention for life. This scent is so animalic as to be dangerous! It’s interesting to
note that as strongly as I feel about Secret de Venus Zibeline, I am completely lukewarm about Zibeline on it’s own. There is a decided difference between them.
The notes officially listed for Zibeline in the H&R Book Fragrance Guide to the Feminine Notes are:
Top: Aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, coriander, estragon
Middle: Orient Rose, jasmin, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, orris, gardenia
Base: Vetiver, civet, sandalwood, amber, musk, honey, tonka
I am not sure how accurate these notes are, as there is a pronounced oceanic edge to this scent. I read one reviewer describe the smell of oysters, which made me laugh. When I provided a sample of the oil to a well-known perfumer working today, she immediately declared the base to be ambergris, civet, and musk. So it is possible that the listed notes should actually list ambergris rather than amber.
Antilope is another fine example of the dichotomy between the simple format and the Secret de Venus version. Antilope is an elegant woody floral which I think has been undervalued as it is so widely available. It just seems to be taken for granted. Make no mistake, it is a stunningly beautiful fragrance rich in sophistication.
Like Zibeline, the perfume formulation of Antilope is exceedingly polite. The base notes are listed as cedarwood, vetiver, leather, musk, and amber, yet as Antilope, it’s so light on the leather and musk as to render them unrecognizable. Once reworked into the Secret de Venus formulation, though, it shifts into bombshell territory, with a strong, womanly drydown becoming apparent and lingering for a day or more.
But I digress…..back to our story…
Meanwhile, back in France, the Nazi-sponsored baron and his girlfriend optimistically registered some wonderfully glamouous perfume names: Nuit de Fete, Filles de Joie, Tournant Dangereux, Pigeon Vole, and Flament Rose in 1943, followed by Fleur dans la Fourrure, Privautes, Grisailles, Escarpins, Coq A L’ane, Contre Jour, Cheritzou, Chamarade, Beau, Masque, Asence, and Padisha in 1944.
It is believed that of these, only Flament Rose was ever actually launched as a perfume — at least during the Nazi occupation and control of the company: Padisha was created and released after the war when control of the company reverted to the family. This has led to confusion, as I have encountered people searching for some of these “registered” names that were never made into perfumes!
Flament Rose was released in early 1944. Around this time, the Baron fled Paris; his girlfriend married a French citizen, and both disappeared into the fog of history. Paris was liberated in August 1944.
During this period, we have the introduction of another rather confusing scent/line of scents. Un brin de lavande was originally registered in 1941. In 1944, its name was changed to Gentilhomme (La Lavande Gentilhomme). In 1950, the Lavande Gentilhomme range was expanded to include a Lotion and a Secret de Venus oil formulation (called Lavande). In October 1951,Gentilhomme was replaced by Lavande Bleue. In 1962, Lavande Bleue was discontinued. In 1966, a new line called Gentilhomme was launched, and eventually discontinued in 1983. We do not know for sure if the scent changed each time, or just the name, though Dan Weil believes that the changes introduced in 1951 and 1966 represented new fragrances.
After the war the brothers returned to Paris. Jacques was active until 1957, and Alfred somewhat until 1964. In 1947, Marcel’s son Jean-Pierre Weil took over the lab. He had already worked as an apprentice at Firmenich, Chiris, and Roure Bertrand. And for a time, they continued producing fantastic perfume.
Weil was producing their pefumes in the 16th arrondissement, in a very old building. They may have been the last major perfume house to produce perfumes in Paris proper. The 16th is a posh residential area, and running this business there was probably a fire hazard. By the early 1960’s, the Parisian authorities told the brothers that they needed to bring the factory up to current code, or move out of Paris. The family did not have the money to do either, as the Germans had taken most of their assets during the war.
Another of Marcel’s sons, Claude James Armand Weil, was not working at the time, and the family asked him to go to Paris to oversee the sale of the company in 1962. He found it in terrible shape and unsaleable, so he stayed on to try to turn it around. When it was improved, he sold it in 1964 to an Algerian family, the Aboulkers.
Claude stayed to run the business for the new owners, along with Jean-Pierre as the perfumer and a cousin, Jean-Paul as Commercial Director. Jean-Pierre officially left the employ of the company in 1971 to focus on creation at Creations Aromatique, but continued creating Weil’s perfumes until 1977 (Chunga was his last). Claude
remained with the company until around 1974. So although the Weil family no longer owned Parfums Weil, they were very much involved well into the 70s.
I do not know with certainty when the Aboulkers sold the company, or whether they sold it directly to InterParfums (the current owners) or if there was another owner in between.
What follows is the sequence of introduction of the perfumes created during the time the Weil family ran the company. This list does not include any perfumes released after the departure of the 2nd generation of Weil brothers in the 70’s. These dates are for perfume only, and does not include all of the various permutations and formulations. Retraction dates are listed only when known with certainty.
- Zibeline - 1928
- Chinchilla Royal - 1928-1963
- Hermine -1931-1940
- Une Fleur - 1931-1941
- Bambou - 1934-1955
- Cassandra - 1936-1969
- Noir-1937 - 1969
- Un Brin de Lavande/Gentilhomme/Lavande Bleue - 1941
- Antilope - 1943/1948
- Flamant Rose - 1944-1944
- Padisha -1947-1963
- Weil de Weil - 1971
- Chunga - 1977
NOTES:
1. Some information comes via Dan Weil from previously written notes of Bernard Le Corvaisier, who was Commercial Director of Weil for a time beginning in 1967.
Many of the images above come courtesy of Jill, with the following exceptions: The two Cobra advertisements, the photo of Antilope and SdV Antilope bottles, the photo of the Antilope and Lavande Bleue vials.