Scentzilla!

The trick with trying describe Shalimar is that ultimately the only thing Shalimar smells like is Shalimar. Released back in 1925, Jacques Guerlain’s creation remains modern and unique, even to this day. The notes include bergamot, lemon, orris, jasmine, opopanax, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, musk, sandalwood, castoerum and ambergris. If I were really forced to sum up its character, I’d say it was like gazing into vanilla through smoke-streaked glass.

There are a number of concentrations available, and I heartily recommmend that if you purchase any of those to seek out the older bottles instead of the newer ones, since use of the smooth bottles seems to be tied to when a more recent change in formulation occured.

My favorite concentrations lie at extreme opposites, the strongest and weakest versions, which I like layered and individually. The parfum is the superior form of Shalimar. The notes in the parfum curl around each other edgelessly, smoothly wrapping the wearer in its charms. I also enjoy the body mist, a light spray that wears as a bit buttery, and I like wearing it most by itself in summer, though layering it over the parfum is delicious during the colder seasons. I must admit that I cannot really carry off any of the concentrations at all - Shalimar is a poor fit for me. But I do enjoy it, and wear it anyhow.

The eau de parfum would probably be considered the closest approximation to the parfum, however I feel like it’s rougher in texture. The notes are slightly jagged in comparison to the gliding ease of the parfum. But, if the parfum is far too far out of your budget, I think the eau de parfum should prove to be the next best thing for most people. Sadly for me, the eau de parfum wears intensely WRONG on my skin, as I get a distinct and overbearing motor oil note from it. But this is not something everyone experiences, so don’t let that scare you off.

The eau de cologne and eau de toilette are versions that unfortunately escape my understanding. They seem Shalimar-esque rather than like Shalimar itself. The eau de cologne strikes me as comparatively brackish, though on some folks this wears as slightly leathery, so perhaps therein lies the appeal. The eau de toilette seems unbalanced to me, with an undue emphasis on the citrus notes, specifically the bergamot to start with. The dry down does retain an almost creamy lemon and vanillic aroma, but the overall life of the edt is shallow and thin.

If you’ve only vague memories of Shalimar, or have never really given it study, you’re missing out on a huge chunk of perfume history. There is nothing else like it, and you will be glad you took the time to sniff.

Image top by Frederick Sommer: Samothrace, smoke on glass negative, second state, 1964. Second image of Shalimar from 99perfume.com.