Archive for December, 2005

Sage Onyx

Friday, December 9th, 2005

Sage Machado Onyx is a gourmand fragrance set to bubble and brown in the oven. Baked warmth pervades the entire life of the scent on my skin.

What I notice most distinctly is the funky coconut nature of Onyx. A strange cross between the raw fruit of a freshly split coconut and of toasted coconut flakes gives the scent a sweetness that induces drooling. The first time I smelled Onyx I immedietly flashed back to a coconut-crazy dessert bar called Baseema that the mother of one my children’s play friends brought one day. The bars were dense, sticky, and almost so sweet I could hardly stand it. Here are two slightly different variations on a recipe for them, one with yogurt and another without yogurt. (If memory serves correct, I believe she shared ones made with yogurt?)

The fragrance is dripping with vanilla that is both foody and floral at once. However, the floral qualities only lightly touch my senses, so that the snackiest bits in the vanilla are what I feel most deeply. Its richness nearly induces pangs of hunger.

The sheer sweetness of this delicious mutant coconut is tempered and prevented from taking control by oakmoss and the sneakiest little tobacco note. The tobacco is a note I can only perceive if I am concentrating - it doesn’t occur to me naturally. This note strikes at sweet pipe tobacco rather than the skank of cigarettes. When paired with oakmoss, these notes feel like I’m being pulled under a dark warm blanket on a cold stormy night. Some scents are comfort fragrances because of their soothing, relaxing properties, but Onyx comforts with a big bear hug and a dessert tray of goodies made for you alone to gorge on.

The oil version of this fragrance is nice, but it was actually a little too thick and sticky for me (scent-wise, not texture-wise), so I chose the eau de toilette version instead. What I appreciate about the eau de toilette is that I feel the various notes are seperated and dispersed just a wee bit better, so that I am not stuck with just a big sticky block of scent. The coconut note specifically seems to fare better in the eau de toilette, insofar as it wears on my body.

The Scentzilla! Guide on How NOT to Decant Perfume

Wednesday, December 7th, 2005

1.) Take care not to wear any sort of eyewear like contacts or glasses, so that you are at your nearsighted best.

2.) Hold large unwieldly 3.4 ounce bottle of Maybe Baby in right hand, and empty 1/3 ounce roll-on bottle in left. Spray directly at the wrong (i.e. closed) end of bottle so that the fragrance stream splashes back into eyes and nose.

3.) Make mad dash to the sink, and wash face with desperate sloshing motions to rinse away the BURNING.

4.) In your hurried blind efforts, dry face with nearest hand towel. Be sure to neglect to notice said hand towel is covered in the minty fresh toothpaste mess left behind by froth-mouthed drooling children in the morning.

5.) Repeat step 3, then dry off face with a blessedly clean towel from the linen closet.

6.) Laugh off your idiocy, and reseat yourself to properly decant fragrance for a friend.

7.) Repeat step 2, sadly enough, forcing a revisitation of step 3.

8.) Call the whole thing a wash; Tell yourself procrastination is the world’s most unheralded survival stragegy; Tomorrow is another day. Turn to the comfort of Starbucks, despite the fact that a mocha at 7 PM will keep you up late. Also, look into safety glasses. Clearly they’re needed.

Today is our anniversary, so in addition to *hopefully* getting Maybe Baby successfully decanted, I will be spending the day *hopefully* with my husband *if* our twin who’s been having intestinal distress is feeling better. If I don’t respond to comments today, you know why!

Apothia If

Monday, December 5th, 2005

Apothia’s If in both eau de parfum and oil formulations are gardenia oriented scents. Despite Apothia’s description of the fragrance, I find only a little citrus, and the musk at the base is so minor as to be practically invisible. The musk seems to be relagated to lightly playing in the background in order to give the floral notes body.

The eau de parfum rather prettily blends gardenia with touches of what I perceive as lily, lily of the valley, and other white florals. It wears on me as pale and nearly creamy, drying down to a scent that smells like lightly candied flowers. It’s nice, and I can appreciate it’s attraction, but I feel it is rather optimistically priced for what you get. For what amounts to basically a gardenia predominate spray, I prefer sticking with Sonia Kashuk’s much more reasonably priced Gardenia No. 1. Kashuk’s Gardenia is a greener and slightly peppery choice, but I enjoy it just as much, and purchasing it is a little easier on my budgetary conscience.

The If oil is another story. While it too is a rather uncomplicated affair, the way the oil unfolds seems to capture some ephemeral moment, like bending a tender stem to the point just before it breaks. In some ways If oil reminds me of Kai perfume oil, but without Kai’s greeness. The oil hugs close to the skin, yet floats with sweetness and light. Click to below to hear a brief clip of the opening of Lush’s Sweetness and Light.”

Download SweetnessandLightbyLushclip.mp3

However, the oil verison of If’s light is not a bright direct beam. It evokes a midday glow filtered through sheer curtains.

I can see how many folks might grow attatched to the oil version of If. The fragrance is nothing ground-breaking, but it’s surprisingly pleasing to wear. I would especially recommend it to those who were thisclose to liking Kai, but wished it were more overtly petalled.

Sonia Kashuk products available at Target stores. Image by Rhonda Grudenic, titled “Alluvial Light,” from pam.org. Lush song “Sweetness and Light” is available on the album Gala, and on Ciao! The Best of Lush compilation at Djangos and Music Millennium.

A Post Praising the Unperfumed

Friday, December 2nd, 2005

While you might think that as a perfume freak I’d be consumed with all things scented, the fact is that I prefer to be judicious in what scents my world. As a consequence, I gravitate towards certain products that, while not without smell, are without a distinct fragrance. I thought I might list some of my favorites:

Hair

Philosopy’s Curly Head hair serum is a nice medium-weight silcone hair serum. Despite the name, the ingredients don’t really do anything special for curly hair, and are completely appropriate for any hair types needing shine or manageability. Two ounces don’t sound like a lot, but one bottle lasts me nearly a year, and I use it every single day. Their Memory hair gel holds nicely without stiffness, and for my below shoulder length hair I only use a pea sized amount to preserve the natural waves in my hair. Beauty Without Cruelty’s Leave-In Conditioner actually does carry a fragrance, but it fades off within a couple minutes, providing me with a nice option for detangling while moisturizing my long hair. It is a silicone free product, so I can use it in conjunction with a serum. However, I know this is also a product of choice for hair product junkies who deliberately try to avoid silicone additives.

Kitchen

Seventh Generation Free & Clear Dish Liquid doesn’t produce as many suds as a regular dishwashing liquid, but it cleans just as well. Moreover, it thankfully doesn’t dry out my hands as much as those regular liquids, and rinses much more easily. Trader Joe’s Automatic Dishwashing Detergent costs me all of three bucks, and works better than the heavily scented and dye-bearing detergents you normally encounter at the grocery for the dishwashing machine. Unfortunately there is no way to obtain it online, and can only be purchased through brick and mortar stores. But if I’m unable to make the trip all the way down to my Trader Joe’s, I go to Fred Meyer and pick up Seventh Generation’s Dishwashing Powder, which costs a bit more, and doesn’t work quite as well as the Trader Joe’s brand, but still gets the job done. I’ve found that despite my chronic perfume use I rarely cause my husband to sneeze, but running the dishwasher with things like Cascade brand detergent does, and how. Neither the Trader Joe’s nor the Seventh Generation induces this reaction in him, and as a consequence, we use them at our house exclusively now. He got sick of sneezing, and I got sick of saying Gesundheit a million times in a row. For cleaning countertops and my table I use plain old white vinegar and water. I know it sounds like it won’t work as well as the more impressive sounding commercial sprays available, but really, it works just fine. Commercial sprays contain surfactants that do aid in wiping away messes, but I don’t mind putting some rather minimal efforts into cleaning up these smooth surfaces. On the rare occasion I do want scent, I like to add a couple drops of Sunshine Spa’s Omar oil, which lends a floral-pine like scent to the spray.

Body

Unrefined shea butter works wonders on dry skin. It’s not precisely scentless, bearing a faint odor reminiscent of pale anise and cardboard, but it’s nothing that interferes in the least with a daily perfume, and the scent is nothing anyone else will pick up. I strongly recommend this eBay seller’s product. Her product arrives in a simple baggie, but it is easily transfered to a Tupperware or disposable Ziploc container. And it’s emminently more affordable than the more popular refined versions sold at much higher prices in far lesser quantity. It’s lovely stuff to use, and spreads just as nicely as the more expensive stuff loaded into overpriced tins. However, I do like carrying around a small tin of shea butter to use on my lips, and for that I turn to Pre de Provence. Their wee 7 ounce tins of refined shea butter moisturize nicely, make a fairly good treatment to put under lipstick/gloss to keep it from slipping off, and never come unscrewed or pop open in my purse. L’Occitane Hand Cream has a cult following, and for good reason. It is awesome. It mostly just smells pleasantly soapy to me, and as long as you’re not slathering it on everywhere, the scent fades soon enough. For lighter lotions, Lubriderm doesn’t have the sexy glam edge of high end brands, but it does the job, and that’s what counts. If you get really desperate, and have nothing else on hand, I’d also suggest Crisco for sore, chapped skin - feel free to laugh at me if you must. I can honestly say it protects and relieves really icky dry skin surprisingly nicely. It does cause some greasiness, however, which shocks exactly no one. Pre de Provence’s Milk soap bar is not precisely unscented either, but I find that the smell is minimal and washes thouroughly from my skin. Escential Lotion and Oils also makes an excellent shower gel, which they do sell unscented (for online shoppers, select “none” in the drop down menu.)

Laundry

My hands down favorite is All Free and Clear. I won’t even bother mention others I’ve tried that are nice enough, but not nearly as good. The powder works well, but we generally choose the liquid. I’m not sure one can buy this online at all, but it’s easily found at most stores here in the US. My skin is impossibly sensitive to clothing detergents for some reason, and this is one of the very very few that has never caused a rash on me. And it blessedly doesn’t impart a scent to my clothing to interfere with my perfume habit. I refuse to use fabric softener or dryer sheets: These products contain chemicals that can yellow your clothing and break down fabrics much quicker than if you simply do without them. So if anyone here does use them and has suggestions, please take a moment to share your recommendations for ones that are not scented, as I’m sure that not everyone feels the same as I do and others will appreciate hearing your ideas. For stain remover, nothing beats using plain old Ivory soap or Dreft baby detergent. Specifically, it’s awesome with organically based stains. I’ve even gotten PRUNE JUICE out of white baby onesies with those. I rinse the item in water, rub a bar of Ivory or use water with Dreft to make a paste to apply to the affected area, let the item set overnight, and then toss it into a load of wash the next day. I’ve yet to find a stain-remover that erradicates discolorations as efficiently.

Have any of your own personal favorites you choose for unscented products? Please share them!

Philosophy and Seventh Generation products can be purchased online at drugstore.com, and the other items hyperlinked are already tied to an etailing shopping source.