Artemisia Natural Perfumes
I think with natural perfumery there are some misconceptions floating around out there. Some consumers fear they will smell like cheesy neohippies, and consequently they dismiss the entire “genre” as the work of perfume enviro-do-gooders. While to a certain degree there exist those who fit this stereotype, it is not one that is true of the whole body of natural perfumery. (Or for that matter, all consumers who buy these fragrances.) More importantly, those dismissive sorts sadly exclude themselves from asking fundamental questions all consumers should ask of any perfume, natural or otherwise: “How does it smell? And how does that affect me?”
There exists an entire class of woodwrights that exclusively uses nothing but hand tools. Not because they’re, like, Amish or Luddites, but because working unplugged and intimately with the wood gives them a sense of joy and accomplishment they cannot find using modern methods. As an aside? Not me. Put a cordless Makita driver/drill in one hand and a Senco pneumatic nailer in the other and I feel so powerful that I just know I could rebuild the entire universe if need be. But these hand tool woodwrights see the tools they use much in the way I imagine a perfumer might view their natural ingredients. Something simple and basic, but equally as capable of accomplishing tasks small and large.
A visual contrast, perhaps?
Here is a modern planing machine:
Here is an exceptionally ornate antique plane:
The modern equiptment is certainly more efficient, but even I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to work with the older yet elegant tool. And to me, that’s what appeals about wearing natural perfumes. Who could pass up at least trying them? (As another aside, I do find the big machine appealing, too. Whir! Vrooom! Bzzzzzt!)
Thus, I found myself drawn to Artemisia Natural Perfumes. I thought last week I’d go on to review a couple, but instead I think I shall just run down some short impressions of all of them.
Gingivera: Alas, the name is one that immediately causes me to play the word association game. Gingivera = Gingivitis. But onto the juice itself. Citrus burns very fast into a dried powdered ginger scent. I smell slight floral trills that don’t quite match the tenacity of the ginger. The fragrance dries down into a scent that I find appealingly straw-like, but I should note the ginger is not entirely shaken loose from my skin even towards the end.
Jasmine Tea: This is the scent I was most looking forward to. It begins as a nearly too sweet floral creation for me, but that evaporates reeeeeally quickly to display a scent that smells very much like a sachet of jasmine green tea. Lovely, really. Unfortunately for me, this also quickly fades into only floral sweetness. I wish the green tea had lingered much longer on my skin.
Lavender & Clove: There is an initial jump of lavender only on me, but soon enough the full fragrance takes effect. I think this is my favorite of the ones I tried, though it’s not as “me” as the Saffron. What I find from this scent is primarily its eponymous notes, and oh! how moist and dewy they smell. While the fragrance is aromatic, it is not sharp or medicinal as I feared it might be. I wish I could write about it a bit more, but I am a genius, and while applying the fragrance to test again, I dropped the vial onto the floor. Yeah, I do want to kick myself over that. I found this scent clung the longest onto my skin. And the carpet. Sigh.
Saffron: Saffron does open with a strong suggestion of spruce-ish elements, but they burned off within a minute. Then I delightedly found what is more or less a linear fragrance of warm woody spiciness. There is perhaps a touch of earthiness in it, but that is minimal and fleeting. The warm glow I read into this is strangely similiar to one I get from first walking into a McDonald’s at lunch hour. I’m a vegetarian, but all that heat and fried goodness gives me a deep fat joy. I would think this eau de parfum would most appeal to saffron enthusiasts who would enjoy a scent that jumps right to the punch. I think Saffron is a fragrance to be enjoyed for the simple pleasure of it.
Yuzu Citrus: There is again a very fast opening, a quick tartness that strays nearly towards sour but not quite. This is followed by a rounder piquant orangey smell, with a floral quality that seems to bear traces of slight grassiness. The florals do not overwhelm the citrus in my opinion. This seems to all be built upon a base that seems vaguely golden and sweet, and I presume this is the honey that Artemesia describes in their listing. Pretty, but not quite me. I think this fragrance would best suit those who prefer unabashedly citrus focused scents.
Artemisia Natural Perfumes is currently running a special for all five samples of eau de parfums for $1.00 for the rest of the year, which made sampling the offerings irresistable. I do hope others will feel the same way.
First image of a jointer from http://en.wikipedia.org.wiki.jointer/. Second image of plane from http://www.mwtca.org/.
Speaking of hand crafting, I would encourage you to read the latest entry on The Soap Blog. I don’t whether to be embarrased or amused that Great Britain is able to witness American dorkiness at an extreme via “reality TV.” And to extend on yet another tangent, if you happen to watch The Apprentice, I think you will really enjoy my e-migo Jacob’s recaps for Television Without Pity. He is one of my favorite writers I know, and he’s so immensely talented. Even when he’s writing about Donald Trump and his corporate weasels I admire his abilities tremendously.
November 14th, 2005 at 7:09 am
So very well said re: natural perfumery. The comparison with woodwrights using hand tools is spot on. If I were a woodwright I probably would have loved big noisy shiny gadgets, but there is nothing like being intimately clsoe to your material, right?
As for Artemisia, I haven’t tried this line before and Jasmin Tea and Yuzu Citrus are calling my name loud and clear :-)
November 14th, 2005 at 8:09 am
Is the Saffron anything like Safran Troublant? It sounds yummy.
November 14th, 2005 at 5:06 pm
Thanks M. Yuzu Citrus is quite bright, and I kind of wonder how it might smell layered with the Gingivera.
R, still haven’t tried ST, but there’s not any particular sweetness in this scent, so I am guessing they may not be too similar.
November 15th, 2005 at 11:11 am
I am so glad that you reviewed these, because I have been meaning to try them for a while. Saffron sounds lovely, and so does Jasmine Tea.
November 15th, 2005 at 12:58 pm
Oh do try them V. You only have a buck to lose, and I do feel you will certainly find the appeal in the Saffron. Jasmine Tea was pretty, but once the green tea left my skin, it was rather disappointing, since I’d really enjoyed it while it lasted.
November 15th, 2005 at 2:49 pm
Thanks for the thoughtful musings on natural perfumery — we do regard ourselves as Old World artisans. No shiny steel labs with vats of synthetics, no testtubes, rather warm, sensual surroundings, the luxury of daydreaming and creating a beautiful scent from the bottom up.
We also emphasize that our scents sometimes (often) do not last as long on the skin. I like to spin that it is a sensual, intimate moment that we get to enjoy frequently, the dabbing or spritzing. We certainly don’t overwhelm others in the office or elevator, lol, and that’s a very, very good thing.
Scent preferences are so individualistic, as we all know. I adore Lisa’s Jasmine Tea, and dont’ wear the Saffron or Lavender Clove because I just don’t like Saffron or Clove. It could be the most beautifully-constructed perfume in the world, win Fifi’s out the yazoo, but I won’t budge. ;-)
I wish I could bathe in her Jasmine Tea. The combo of notes she used are ususual; the result is seductive and endearing to me.
Thanks for the review and the artisan ref — we are lucky souls, we who get to dabble and play with the raw, natural gifts from the earth.
PS I’ve spoken to Lisa about the brandig of Gingivera :-P Heck, I like the scent, but yes, oy, thoughts of the dentist, lol!
November 15th, 2005 at 3:58 pm
I don’t mind necessarily if frangrances have a short life span on my skin - as long as the life is full, I’m good with it, y’know? So I guess I don’t particularly worry about it with nat. perfumes, since I am already expecting it to happen. I am pleased when they cling well to me, though, which is what I found with the Lavender & Clove. I got four or five hours out of it, which I think is pretty darn good, really.
And thanks, Anya.
November 16th, 2005 at 10:01 pm
Katie,
I love Saffron so much that I bought a full bottle from Artemisia Natural Perfume.
It is an inspirational, enveloping scent, like wrapping up in a turmeric coloured silk sari, perfumed with spices and pathcouli.
The genious of this perfume is in it’s simplicity showcasing the beauty and richness of saffron, accentuated (yet never overwhelmed by) vibrant blood orange, coriander, sandalwood, tuberose, patchouli and cedar. A real beauty, with a serene and subtle influence and long lasting.
I also loved the other scents - especially Lavender & Clove (rich, warm, soft and surprisingly delicious!), Jasmine Tea (emerald green and sweet jasmine and green tea with emerald herbs - sweet and warm and refershing - with green tea, rosemary absolute, fir absolute, osmanthus and a few types of jasmine), and Yuu Citrus (refreshing and sparkling green citrus, with galbanum, yuzu, lemon verbena and a hint of honey).
Lisa is a great talent and her perfumes are a true perfection - with deep respect to the subtelties of the raw materials, she concocts perfumes that are refined, delicate adn understated.
November 16th, 2005 at 11:47 pm
I think those big guys at Orange county are funny - and I do think they hang together as a family which is cute - like they wouldn’t cuddle or hug so they punch and swear at each other - but its love nonetheless
Oh and the bikes are a bit nifty too!!
November 17th, 2005 at 3:12 pm
Ayala, those are simply wonderful descriptions, just lovely. The Saffron was one of those scents I didn’t feel right about picking into notes - I just wanted to enjoy its warm glow. You written beautifully about them all, though, and thank you for that.
Heather, yeah, those Teutels do seem to have a lot of love under everything, but OY! all that hollering would raise my blood pressure to a woefully dangerous level within a day. The bikes are quite nifty, indeed. Which I say despite the fact that I would be far too big of a chicken to ever get on one of those things :D
November 17th, 2005 at 4:46 pm
I didn’t think of Gingivera this way - to me it sounded like a feminine name for ginger - like ginger and vera. I actually liked the name - however the scent did not work on my skin. I love ginger in my food, but not as a dominant note in perfume. I have a similar problem with geranium - love the note on its own, but on my skin it becomes sharp and overly strong.
It’s all about body chemistry.
As for the Saffron - it is a linear scent, so the other notes really stay in the background. What one needs to know is it’s golden glow and noble presence that is really special…
Another word on lasting power - that has a lot to do with body chemistry and the construction of hte fragrance.
On my skin, most of my perfumes last at least 12 hours (and some of my customers have the same experience), while on others they do not stay for as long as that.
Also, people that are used to wear very strong synthetic may be “immune” to the subtleties of the natural scents and become unaware of their presence faster due to olfactory fatigue and their nervous system’s being used to very strong stimulation.
That is why natural perfumers need to educate the public about fragrance appreciation and understanding the difference between natural aromatics and aromachemicals…
November 18th, 2005 at 12:33 am
Thanks for the review! I ordered a set of samples for my mother. She thought they were fun. I’m really curious about the Yuzu Citrus. There’s this yummy yuzu drink at my favorite cafe…
November 18th, 2005 at 5:20 am
Ayala, if I think about “gingivera” I split it up into ginger and primavera. But gingivitis is what it initially triggers in my brain funnily enough.
With but a few exceptions, I don’t know I’d want a fragrance to go a whole 12 hours on me! I enjoy reapplication perhaps a bit too much to do without it.
And I’m with you about educating the public about the differences, but I don’t feel the burden of that should fall on natural perfumers alone. The largest companies, specifically the big boys of perfume chemistry, need to be a bit more helpful in informing consumers of what it is they are purchasing. (But I suppose from a business-only standpoint, this probably sounds ridiculous.)
Kuri, oh yay! I hope she will like them. Ah, the perks of being in Japan. I don’t think I could find a yuzu drink at all around here, though one of the local restaraunts does make a yuzu flavored meat dish.
November 20th, 2005 at 10:46 pm
“And I’m with you about educating the public about the differences, but I don’t feel the burden of that should fall on natural perfumers alone…”
Scentzilla,
Good point about sharing the responsibility of eduction. It’s not a burden for us - it’s more like a necessary part of our work, as there is so much mis-information out there regarding naturals.
However, I don’t think the big houses and chemists want to do that. It’s far more profitable to make people believe that they are buying a perfume full of jasmine, and not a chemical called hedione. It just doesn’t sound as good.
Gradually, the public is becoming more aware. The internet (and blogs such as your own!) are one major source of information for people that is readily and easily available for many people, and the truth about what perfumes are made of is making its way into people’s private “databases” and they will be able to make an informed decision about which scents they are buying.
(I myself wear and enjoy both natural perfumes and ones that include synthetics; I think it’s important to know what in the products you are buying and using and the correct information should be clear to the consumers!)
I am glad you liked Lisa’s perfumes, they are stunning!
November 21st, 2005 at 2:51 pm
I guess quite obviously, I do wear both, too. Love of one does not preclude love of the other, or of those scents that are a blending of the two approaches.
That is the nice thing about the internet, though, you’re right. It does make it easier for folks like myself to obtain info, which is something I appreciate so much.
Thank you again, Ayala, for taking the time to detail such well considered thoughts.
December 5th, 2005 at 9:11 pm
I ordered these samples, and am not sure quite what to think yet. Most of them make me feel like I’m wearing something I purchased from Pearl River in Manhattan that I just haven’t washed yet.
I tried the Lavender and Clove scent, and really liked it the first time, thought it was interesting. However, the second time I wore it, I instantly thought “Polo”. It was weird.
And the Jasmine Tea scent? Left me with *only* the tea scent - whereas with Scentzilla, it left her first. Dunno. Maybe that was the tea in my pocket from Pearl River.
More comments as I get more familiar with the scents…
December 6th, 2005 at 12:43 pm
I had to look up what Pearl River was, as I had never heard of it, and thought there was no way you were fishing things out of some mystery river. ;) Knowing it’s a shop makes so much more sense. (I’m in Oregon, so forgive my ignorance of NY shopping!)
Oh lucky on the tea note lasting you… I wish it would have on my poor skin. I haven’t smelled Polo in… god, years actually. I don’t even remember what it’s like anymore. I really enjoy the drydown on the Lavender & Clove, it’s where I start to perceive that moistness and fresh quality in the scent I mentioned.
I really look forward to reading what other thoughts and impressions you have to share - it’ll be interesting to hear someone else’s opinion about them. Thanks, Tonya.